Travel


Because we came to Istanbul two weeks before school started (for “orientation“), Dana and I have had a lot of extra time on our hands for sightseeing. Most of the other students left town to go explore other parts of Turkey and to see the surrounding countries (Greece, Bulgaria, etc.), but we stayed here because we’re both concerned about overspending our financial aid money in the early days of this trip. Unlike all the 20-year-old students, Dana and I don’t have mom and pops funding us throughout the semester. This, of course, makes us boring to all of the other students because we can’t go out every night and get wasted or decide to take a 5-day cruise at the drop of a hat (I’m not bitter or anything). The plus, though, is that Dana and I are getting to know our areas of Istanbul quite well (that and the mall by my house).

In the last few days we’ve done just about every touristy thing possible, except for Topakapi Palace because at this point we’re a little worn out. But we’ll go see it soon, promise. Anyway, here are the highlights:

Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar: Dana and I mistakenly went here last Saturday, the day before Bayaram (the festival at the end of Ramadan). Picture the supermarkets the day before Thanksgiving, then times it by 100. The markets were PACKED. Don’t forget, there are 15 million people living in Istanbul, 80 percent of whom are Muslim. I got some great photos at the bazaars and also picked up some delicious Turkish Delight to send home to friends, but I really wish we’d chosen a different day to go. Dana and I were completely stressed by the end because we had to guard our bags so carefully in the crush of people. At one point we were trapped on a street among hundreds of other people, none of us able to move. I mean, we were at a complete standstill. And this is when it occurred to me that Dana and I were suddenly the only chicks in the area – and we somehow got spearated from each other. As we tried to work our way out down the street and out of the crowd we were grabbed numerous times by the men surrounding us. It was probably the most frightening situation I’ve ever been in and I was shaking by the time we disentangled ourselves from the crowd. All we wanted at that point was to get as far away from the market district as possible. We jumped on the tram and headed back toward home, stopping along the way to take some photos of the Bosphorus.

Bosphorus Cruise: Dana and I had intended to spend the day working our way up the Bosphorus on a cruise that stopped at various ports on both the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, but when we got to Eminönü it was super crowded and we just jumped on the first boat we saw (we were obviously still shaken after our experience at the Spice Bazaar, which is also located at Eminönü). The cruise we ended up taking was one that went up the Bosphorus and then came right back. It was about a 2-hour cruise and was extremely relaxing in comparison to any of the other sightseeing we’ve done so far. I especially enjoyed it because the lighting was perfect for getting some great photos. It had rained earlier in the day and the sky was still cloudy and made for a beautiful backdrop to the city. It was also a great way to get an overview of the city and kind of orient ourselves better (with the help of the guidebook I’d brought along). Now we’ll be better prepared when we DO do the cruise that stops at various locations.

Blue Mosque: After our cruise we still had some daylight to kill and, as before, we wanted to get as far away from Eminönü as possible, so we set out for Sultanahmet. Unfortunately, it was the second day of Bayaram and we arrived just before prayer time, so again there were tons of people everywhere. We didn’t know exactly where to go or what to do so we thought we’d just walk around the building and take some photos. We figured we’d come back a different day with one of our Turkish friends so we wouldn’t make any unforgivable mistakes, but then we saw some signs in English when we rounded the corner. There was a list of guidelines, along with the hours for visiting, which began about 45 minutes later. So we went to the nearby bazaar to kill some time before coming back to enter the famous Blue Mosque. This was by far one of the best things we’ve seen in Istanbul. The Blue Mosque gets its name from the thousands of handmade tiles covering its interior walls. Not only was the building beautiful, but the feeling inside was very serene. It was nearly silent inside and everyone was very respectful of the surroundings. At the time I was pre-occupied with taking photos, but I’d like to go back sometime without my camera and just sit and enjoy being there.

An added bonus was coming out of the Blue Mosque and seeing Aya Sofia lit up by the late afternoon sun. It was a great photo op and I took a ton of photos. I brought my Digital SLR with me and want to use my extra time here learning to take better photos and I’ve been getting lots of time to practice, but I feel sorry for Dana always having to wait around for me.

Asian side: On Tuesday, the last day of Bayaram, our Turkish friend (introduced to us by Kristina – thanks Kristina!), Aşkın (pronounce Ash-kun), took us to some great food spots in Istanbul, including this nice seafood restaurant in a small fishing village on the Asian side of Istanbul. It was nice having a guide (and a car!) to take us around the city.

Aşkın knows all kinds of little details about history and gives us cultural insights that our guidebook can’t provide, so we’re always super excited when he can come along for an adventure. Plus, he speaks French so I always get a chance to brush up on my French skills with him, which I like. He did make me eat fish that still looked like fish though. This is only funny because I’d told him a few days prior that I hate seafood, especially if it still looks like seafood. I can’t eat oysters or mussels from the shells and I DEFINITELY can’t eat fish that has eyeballs staring back at me. Aşkın ordered for us though because we didn’t understand one thing on the menu so I had no idea what I would be eating.  When it came, I looked up at him, pouted, and said, “Avec les yeux?” And that’s when he remembered. He chuckled, then apologized, if only to be polite, saying that the fish was so delicious that I’d forget about the eyes once I started eating it. I did not forget about the eyes, but I did eat it. I’m here to try new things after all.

Now all we have left on our list is Topkapı Palace and a Hamam of some sort. We’re going to put it off for awhile though. We’re pretty touristed out and school starts Monday so this weekend is all about relaxing and getting caught up on Season 6 of Project Runway.

P.S. I went back to the Spice Bazaar yesterday to get a couple of more things to send home and it was much more calm, so don’t be scared of it if you ever come to Istanbul. We just chose a really, really bad time to go. I still had major high anxiety when I went there yesterday, but it was definitely less scary and less crowded on a normal business day.

P.P.S. To see my photos from Istanbul you can go here.

During my first couple of days in Istanbul I didn’t have Internet, so I’ve been keeping short little notes to myself about things I’ve noticed or thought since my arrival here.

Seatbelts: Nobody wears seatbelts here, even though everyone seems to drive however they want, paying no attention to traffic signals, signs or other vehicles. In fact, the taksi I took when I first arrived here had seatbelts, but no place to click the seatbelt into place. I asked one of my friends about this and he said there are seatbelt laws but nobody gets in trouble for not wearing one unless they get pulled over for doing something else. Oh, and people in the backseat are never required to wear seatbelts. I feel like I’m going to die every time I get into a car here.

Architecture: I’m constantly in awe of the beautiful architecture here. The mosques are amazing to look at and there is so much history in this city. I could live here ten years and would never feel like I’d seen everything there is to see here.

Air Conditioning: Seriously Istanbul (and Europe in general!)? You have a subway system the likes of which we’ll probably never see in California, yet you’ve never heard of air conditioning? I’m seriously thinking of writing to the U.S. government to see if they can send diplomats abroad to raise awareness about the newfangled invention of air conditioning.

Ramadan: I’m here at a really exciting time of year for the Muslim faith. I’ve heard about Ramadan and have even known a couple of practicing Muslims who have participated in this holy month of fasting, but it’s so much different when you’re in a place where 80 percent of the population is Muslim. Not all are practicing, but there are enough here who are to make the impact. Those celebrating Ramadan don’t eat, drink or smoke from sunrise to sunset. One of my Turkish friends told me that the time of year for Ramadan changes every year and this is one of the worst times of year to have it because the days are still long for summer so you have to fast for a much longer period than you would in the winter. I’m looking forward to September 20th because there’s going to be a big celebration for the end of Ramadan then.

Call for prayer: I had always thought the call for prayer was bells ringing or maybe a loud sound like a gong. I know this shows my ignorance of Islam, but that’s why I’m hear right? To learn? So anyway, it’s actually a person speaking. I don’t know what they’re saying, but the call for prayer is actually a person calling people to prayer. I had no idea what it was the first time I heard it, but I’m already getting used to hearing it several times a day.

Turkish people: Everyone here has been very hospitable. I’ve already had a hundred wonderful encounters with Turkish people. For instance, yesterday I was walking around Taksim by myself and was invited in by a shop owner who gave me a short lesson in how Turkish ceramics are made and what the symbology on the dishes is for, all while I was seated drinking some lovely apple tea. He knew from the beginning that I couldn’t afford to buy anything (“You don’t need to buy anything. Please, come in and take a look.”), but he was happy to spend time answering my questions and having a conversation with me.

The Bus: Because I live about 30 minutes by car from campus, I’ll be taking the bus to school every day. I’ve already learned how to use it pretty well thanks to my new friend Basak, who is the ex-girlfriend of my roommate. She showed me around on my first two days here and taught me where to shop and how to take the bus. Every time I’m on the bus it’s an adventure. People will ask the bus driver if he can just let them out wherever and he’ll just open the doors to let them hop off while at a traffic sign or sometimes when the bus is still moving. In the same vein, the bus doesn’t always pull up to the stop to let you on. If there’s a lot of traffic, they’ll stop halfway down the road (before the stop) and open the doors. If you weren’t paying attention and didn’t run to catch the bus down there, you can always hop on while the bus crawls by in traffic, but it will not stop again just for you.

Oh, one more funny story about the bus. When I was on it the first time by myself, the driver pulled over for quite some time. I thought it was because it was the end of the line or something and he was waiting for the right time to leave the stop like they do at home. Turns out he was waiting for a girl to run into a nearby store to pick up a drink, and for two other passengers to pick up some fast food. I guess they had asked him to take pity on them so they could get their first food of the day because they were practicing Ramadan. I can’t in a million years imagine that happening on a bus in the U.S.

Pennies: Apparently there are no pennies in Turkey. If your total is 9.99YTL, you will not get anything back. I think it’s a racket. Every store has the same 2.99 pricing that we have at home. They must be making a fortune each year on unreturned pennies because anything below 5 cents they’re keeping. It makes me want to whip out my credit card every time so I can pay only what is due. I guess I’ll just have to get used to it though.

Food: One thing is certain: I will not starve in Turkey. The food here is delicious! And they know how to make things spicy! I’m in love already. Oh my gosh, and the desserts! I’d be surprised if I don’t come home as big as a house.

Taksis: I cannot walk anywhere by myself here without taksis flashing their lights and honking at me to see if I want a ride. Each one only honks one time, so at first I thought it was because I was in their way or something. Turns out that’s how they see if you want a ride. The buses do it too when they’re passing a bus stop that more than one bus services. It’s going to make me crazy, I’m sure of it.

OK then, I’ll write again soon.

Best,

Becca

Because I’m really not in the mood at this point, and because the Internet here is snail paced, I’m not going to rewrite this. Instead, here’s the (slightly edited) email I sent to Leslie as soon as I landed in Istanbul:

Oh my God. Well the good news is I arrived safely. First, I bought
the wrong train ticket for Frankfurt and had a panic attack when they announced a
change in Mannheim for people going to the Frankfurt airport. When I got off the train, the guy at the platform told me it would cost me extra to change my ticket, but then on the train they were super great about it and just told which stop would be mine.

Then when I got to the airport I discovered that there were three luggage storage spots and I didn’t know which one Leslie’s brother took my luggage to. I was sweating like a pig because of course there was no air conditioning and I got huge blisters from walking back and forth
through the terminal. Luckily it was at the second storage location I tried so it wasn’t as bad as it could have been.

No, the truly awful thing was that my airline didn’t consider my flight international because I didn’t fly with them from the United States, so I was only allowed 20 kilos (44 pounds) before they started charging me 15 eurose PER KILO. For the record, my other airline allowed two 50-lb bags. That should give you some idea of what I was dealing with.

So basically they wanted me to pay $550 to check one of my bags, which, by the way, is twice the price I paid for my round-trip ticket from them. I ended up having to throw away pretty much everything in the suitcase her brother stored for me and STILL ended up paying €120 extra. I was crying hysterically because I’d been awake for 24 hours and they were so unsympathetic. AND what really pissed me off was that the flight was half empty! Was it really necessary to be nazis about the baggage allowance when there was NOBODY on the fucking flight. There were at least 25 empty seats, including the two right next to me (as if I needed it rubbed in that throwing away half my clothes and all of my toileteries was extreme). Twenty-five empty seats adds up to 25 bags not checked at 20 kilos each, which adds up to 500 kilos NOT on board. I don’t think my 8 kilos over the limit was going to ground the plane.

I’ve been traveling for a month. I’m 3,000 miles away from home with nobody who can just take my extra clothes home for me. Would it really have killed them to be a little bit understanding about the situation?

Needless to say, while I was on my layover I wrote a ridiculously long well-worded letter (no swearing!) to customer service. I’m sending it as soon as I have Internet. Oh AND my flight was an hour late so my roommate’s friend who was meeting me (and who got off work early to meet me) had to wait forever!

Fuck Swiss Air!

When I was a kid I was absolutely enamoured with elephants. I don’t know why, they were just always my favorite animals. This could possibly explain why for the last couple of weeks I’ve been obsessing about volunteering at an elephant sanctuary in Thailand with International Student Volunteers (the same program I went with for the sea turtle conservation project). The trip cost has gone up since I went two years ago, from $2,495 to $3,195 PLUS airfare (which is about $1,500 for Thailand) making it absolutely unaffordable for me. But I still kept trying to work out ways I could con my way into a trip and I finally had a moment of brilliance yesterday afternoon.

See, what happened was I remembered a little something from when Sofia and I went to Costa Rica: When we got to our volunteer site we found out that there were tons of random people volunteering there, not just people from the ISV program we were with. These people had just been trekking around Costa Rica when they stumbled upon the sea turtle project and decided to stay for a couple of weeks. And do you know what they paid for their volunteer time there? $75 to sign up with the project and $15 a day for food and lodging. For the two weeks we spent there (costing us approximately $1,250), they spent $285! Yeah, we got mega-screwed out of some dollars. So yesterday I began thinking: What if it’s the same case for this Thailand volunteer project? Can just anyone walk into the elephant sanctuary and sign up?

Oh, you betcha! I googled “Thailand elephant conservation” and found an awesome sanctuary where I can volunteer for up to 4 weeks at only $345.87 per week ($1,383.48 for a whole month). This price includes lodging and three meals a day. Then I went to the ISV site just to see which elephant project they had scheduled and it’s the same one. Woohoo!

Erm, so I’m going to Thailand this summer instead of my previously scheduled hike of the northern portion of the Pacific Crest Trail. My plan is to volunteer for two weeks and then spend a week or two traveling around the country. I can only get a 30-day visa otherwise I would have liked to stay longer. A month will probably be just enough to make me homesick though. Anyway, I just wanted to share the news because I’m so totally stoked about it. Yay!

Can I just say how great it is to be home? I drove into work with Tony this morning and walked from McKinley park to the downtown public library. It’s about 20 blocks, but the weather is so beautiful who wouldn’t want to go for a nice walk? I was a bit disappointed that I forgot my camera though. I’ve already discovered so many great things I want to write about and show you guys. I checked out four books from the library and I have about seven more on hold. I don’t have to pick them up for a few more days though so I’m going to let them sit on the hold shelf. When I get too many books at home I begin to think they’re neglected.

I have to say it feels so great to be looking at Sacramento with fresh eyes. I really do love it here. One thing though, what’s with the restaurants changing every six months? I know that’s a sign that the city is growing and changing, but man, so many places have gone since I was here. The crepe place on 10th and K that I was totally looking forward to (was being built when I left) is already closed down and being prepared to be turned into another freaking cafe. Because there just aren’t enough cafes anywhere in the world. Damn caffeine-aholics.

Anyway, I’m sitting in R15 right now using their free internet and smiling inside because now I really am home.

Mwah!

What a day. I started off this morning walking the three blocks to the RER, which didn’t seem like a big deal. I’d done it lots of times. But with baggage it was much more difficult because the entire three blocks was on an uphill slope. Oh, the things we don’t notice when we’re walking unhindered.

I get to the airport a little later than expected, so I’m already a bit irritable. Then I get to the gate and the woman tells me my flight is cancelled. NOT what I want to hear at 8 a.m. She can’t tell me whether they’ll be able to put me on another flight and directs me to go to the ticket counter, which is conveniently nowhere near the check-in counter. Once at the ticket counter I’m stuck behind all of the other angry passengers, while ONE guy works to change everybody’s flights. After about an hour, and cursing at several French people for trying to cut in line, I get helped and am put on a flight with Continental instead of my original airlines, American. The good news: I get home 1.5 hours early. The bad news: I have no money, no cell phone and no internet access to tell Tony. Yay!

Then I get in line to check-in and they tell me my ticket isn’t valid. Now I get to go wait in line at another ticket counter! Woo hoo! In the meantime I weigh my baggage and find out that one of my bags is 20 pounds overweight. I station myself at the nearest garbage bin and begin chucking out all of the clothes I really probably won’t ever wear but I always keep for some reason. I also had to throw out my huge, and always reliable, French-English Dictionary. I get my ticket. I get to the check-in counter. My bag is still 8 pounds over, but is easily lightened by removing a pair of jeans, a winter jacket and a blazer. I keep my pea coat with me and throw out the jeans and blazer. Tony owes me lots of new clothes (my bag was over because I’m carrying tons of his stuff, including a heavy leather jacket and a bottle of absinthe. Just sayin).

I get stopped a million times by security and keep praying they won’t catch me for overstaying my visa. Thank God nobody questions me for that. The nicest person I’ve seen today was the customs guy who still scared me to death. I almost had to get strip searched at the security point because I beeped even though I have nothing in my pockets, nor am I wearing a belt or any jewelry. Also, they found my water bottle in my bag and made me take it out to prove it was empty. That’s what I get for being cheap and refusing to pay for water when I know I can get it free out of a water fountain once I pass security.

But all of that is nothing compared to the highlight of the day: fishing my passport out of a toilet full of my own urine. No, I’m not joking. In Houston I only had 45 minutes to get to my connecting flight so I was rushing through customs and put my passport in my back pocket while I re-checked my baggage. Then I ran to the bathroom to pee and change my t-shirt and when I stood up to pull up my pants I heard something fall. When I turned around I saw my passport floating with the toilet paper. I reached in there without even thinking and began drying that sucker off with toilet paper. Luckily it wasn’t too water-logged. All I can say is: I’m grateful I didn’t have to take a dump.

So it was an adventure-filled day, but it ends with good news, which is I’m home! And the weather is beautiful. And I had a warm shower. So warm that I’m too hot to blowdry my hair. Ah, it’s good to be home.

See you all super soon!

Today I moved out of my apartment. Now I’m that much closer to home! I can’t wait.

Last night I embarrassed myself at a French-English Conversation exchange. I showed up after already having drunk half a bottle of wine. I brought the rest of said bottle of wine with me to the bar, along with a glass. Shortly after pouring myself a large glass of the wine and putting the bottle out in full view, the bartender came over and was not happy at all that I had snuck in my own booze. He didn’t kick me out, but he did take the bottle and my glass of bootlegged wine.

I also met this girl from San Francisco who I didn’t get along with very well. I kept saying inappropriate things because I’d had too much wine and she kept looking at me with contempt. And anyway, I didn’t like her almost immediately because when her boyfriend asked me what Sacramento was like, she didn’t even give me a chance to respond before saying, “It’s a hole.” I wonder if she’s even ever been to Sacramento. I hate that girl.

I woke up this morning not feeling too hot. And what you’ve read above is just about all I can remember of the night. I’m also extremely nervous because I left the keys and my farewell letter at my boss’ house this morning. I was seriously shaking from nerves. And now all I can do is wait for her scary phone calls.

I’m reading “Love in the time of Cholera” right now. It was the cheapest thing that looked interesting at the book store. All of the other books were 11 euros or more, but for some reason this one was only 8 euros so I bought it to keep me company for the next few days. I think its loss in value comes from it being on the Oprah’s Book Club list. I didn’t know that until AFTER I bought it, but it annoys me all the same. I don’t know why I hate Oprah’s Book Club so much, but I really do. I think it bothers me because it means just about every woman in America is reading the same book just because Oprah recommends it. Does anybody pick up a book anymore without the media telling them to? Just wondering.

OK then, hope you are all well.

Tony and Angela both left this afternoon. I also took my two huge bags to my friend Mihir’s house, where I’ll be squatting for a few days before my grand escape. All that’s left here is piles of paper and the few clothes hanging on the drying rack.

And me, of course. It’s so lonely in this tiny apartment all by myself and it’s making me a bit crazy. Just one more day here and then I’m off to Mihir’s though, so I guess I won’t have too much time to lie in bed being depressed. Actually, tomorrow I plan to clean up this apartment a little bit, throw out the rest of the food that I don’t plan to eat at Mihir’s and finish packing.

I can’t believe it’s finally almost time for me to leave. Paris really is such a beautiful city and I’ll be sad not to have the Eiffel Tower only a few blocks away, and history at my doorstep. I really will miss it here, but I cannot wait to be back in Sacramento where I feel comfortable.

I’m looking forward to not feeling like an ugly duckling when I show up in a t-shirt and flip-flops. It’s going to feel great to have my feet free of the confines of these horrid shoes. Oh, and running in the spring. I can’t wait to run again. I’ve become extremely lazy in my last weeks here.

I’m sure you’re all sick of hearing me talk about coming home, it’s just there isn’t much else on my mind these days. I did finish two books this week, which is a plus. That puts me at nine for the year. I’m a bit behind schedule, but I’ve already got six books waiting for me on the hold shelf at the Sacramento Public Library. Cannot wait.

See you all in six short days!

Let me tell you a little story…

In anticipation for one of my life-long friends arriving today, I was at the grocery store yesterday and I tried to convince Tony to let me splurge and buy champagne so Angela and I could make mimosas for breakfast when she arrived. Somehow he talked me out of it (I’m pretty sure by reminding me that champagne always gives me a headache), but I was certain champagne was a good idea.

When Angela arrived this morning – at 7:27 a.m. mind you – the first thing she says to me after hello is, “We should go buy champagne and make mimosas!”

Let’s just say my heart was smiling in a big way.

Angela’s arrival here is pretty much the best thing ever since Tony getting here. It’s the most amazing feeling to meet up with someone and not have to explain all of your old stories, and have to validate your alcoholic tendencies. Angela even trumps Tony because I don’t have to spend time trying to convince her that I used to be a crazy Mormon who never swore or drank alcohol. She can fully attest to these facts and even add to the horrificness of these stories.

Angela and I have had our rough patches in the past, but we’ve grown up together and we’ve grown through all of that bullshit together, which, really, only makes us better friends.

Her being here though really makes me look forward to coming home even more. Why? Because I’ll have all of my friends that I won’t have to explain my life story to. I won’t have to tell them I was once married and try not to look nervous as they secretly judge me. They were there. Shit, some of them were in the wedding. I don’t have to tell the story of how Tony and I met. And I can say no to a night out and not worry that they’ll never invite me out again. I could go on, but let’s just say I miss you guys.

As for the mimosas: Once the grocery store opened we bought three bottles of champagne and blood oranges to make fresh-squeezed mimosas. We then went to the Eiffel Tower. Stopped at a bar to get a beer. Went to McDo and got beer with our extra value meals. Came home, slept it off a bit. Went to La Fee Verte and had absenthe (me, wine). And now we’re headed for bed.

A day that starts with alcohol at 9 a.m. is pretty much an amazing day. It’s been months since I’ve done that (in fact, I do believe the last time was with Angela as well). It was nice, although I did get a bit belligerent with a couple of gypsies on the Champs Elysees a few times. I’ll have to get more sleep tonight otherwise I’ll be a mean drunk again tomorrow.

I started packing last night and two things occurred to me. First, Tony and I still have a hell of a lot of stuff. How did this happen? I’m going to ship one more box of stuff (mostly books) home and then hopefully everything will fit in our four suitcases. Tony has to go light because we bought him a cheap ticket home and they only allow you to bring on 25 kg of luggage. Considering he had 50 kg on his way here, we have quite a bit to shave off there. We’re currently trying to stuff it all into my baggage.

The second I realized is that I move an awful lot. In fact, by the time Tony and I move into our apartment when we get back to Sacramento, I will have moved 14 times in the last 9 years (the time since I moved out of my parents house). That means I move approximately every 8 months. And for the first time I’m really tired of it. As I was thinking about this, I turned to Tony and asked if we could settle down for awhile when we get back. Of course he said it’s no problem. I’m going back to school and he wants to go back to school too, so it’d probably be best if we just planned to stay in Sacramento anyway. But it was really a huge relief to get it out there and say it.

The only problem now will be finding a place that I won’t mind living in for two or three years (or more, who knows?). I really, REALLY want a place with out own washer and dryer. And I super want a garden so I can grow my own vegetables and herbs (plus, I want a worm bin and Tony says I can’t keep it in the house). The hitch: I don’t think they have this in the price range of “poor” and “poorer.” But it’s possible. I’m scouting out craigslist daily.

In other news: After having my freelance website for more than a year, I’m finally finished with it and willing to share it with the general public. I’d really appreciate any feedback you can give me. And I’d like to apologize for always asking you all to do this for me. It’s just nice to get some feedback when you have something new, you know?

I’d also like to thank those of you who have already given me your critiques. It really helped me to make the site better and work out some bugs. I also need to thank Tony for being my own personal graphics and logo designer, and Chason for being my own personal copy editor. I really appreciate everyone’s help. Hopefully this site will finally start to pay off and I can find some writing gigs when I get home.

Kisses,

Me.

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